One of my favorites: The Comedian as the Letter C by Wallace Stevens

http://www.everypoet.com/archive/poetry/Wallace_Stevens/wallace_stevens_the_comedian_as_the_letter_c.htm

Life moves on...

So after almost three years of living and studying in Istanbul, last Tuesday I finally defended my thesis. I'm still sort of amazed that I actually finished writing it since it has seemed like such an unending process for the past two years. These past 9 months especially have really tested my endurance since I haven't had any courses or a job, so I have spent most of my time working in the library, at school or cafes around the city. I'm still not quite sure how I managed to get through but having a nice apartment with good roommates helped make me feel a bit more secure, going home for two months helped break up the monotony and I suppose my enthusiasm and interest in the topic didn't hurt. I did seem to care a lot about the outcome which I think pushed me to actually work and finish the thesis. 

Just to quickly summarize, my thesis is a preliminary study towards a site management plan for Alalakh, a Bronze Age (c. 2000 BC) excavation located in southern Turkey directed by my adviser. It has changed a lot since my draft in June but I think is better for all the comment, criticism and editing I had to endure since October. So a Management Plan is a document, recommended for heritage sites by the World Heritage Center at UNESCO, that sets out to explain and organize the current situations of a site, including its significance, values, threats, opportunities, development and conservation plans and then followed by strategies for actually implementing any future plans. Its very much a practical document and can actually be used and applied. My thesis had some aspects for application but also included more general discussions of site management practices at other sites in Turkey in order to contextualize the situation at Alalakh and to propose suggestions for future implementation strategies. 

One of the exciting aspects which also helped me finish the thesis was being told that my advisor wanted to me to continue with this project and really take on the responsibility of executing and implementing the projects. Also, one of the main aspects is the issue of applying for funding which can be a full time job on its own. And since she has been doing it for the past ten years she wants someone who can take the time to apply and be in a position to include their own salary into the grant applications. This summer I will actually be starting work on designing and installing some preliminary information panels for Alalakh, and at the neighboring site of Tell Tayinat. Hopefully we will also be able to continue some of the community outreach programs we started last summer and maybe come up with some real ideas for helping them sustain their  communities.

As for my post-summer, post-master's life for September it has yet to be decided. My attempts at applying for positions to continue work back in the US didn't work out, granted they were real reaches, so I am back to square one. I have applied to continue studies at my university here in Istanbul so we will see if that works out. It does seem to make sense if I want to work in this country or in this region where there is still work to do in Cultural Heritage, unlike in the United States where it is pretty established and also I just have no interest in working in preserving American Heritage. I studied Greek and now Turkish history so my background is based on Mediterranean cultures, therefore it makes sense to continue my studies and experience here, where I can really develop connections and projects. We will see if they accept me, first of all, or if I come up with some other grand plan by the end of the summer. 

I do, of course, miss living closer to my family and friends in the States but living in Istanbul is pretty fantastic. And at this point I do have more connections and more opportunities for work here than in the States. Also, I figured I can just refuse to return until everyone comes to visit me here and thereby understand why I love this city :) Who knows where life will take me...so far its been a pretty unexpected but sensible ride. Sometimes its terrifying, but most of the time it is exciting to realize what I can do with my life and where I have been and what I have done so far. At the moment its a little scary though...especially after applying to PhD programs that are five year commitments which means if I start when I'm 27, next fall, I would be 32 when I finished...craziness! hah!

I guess its good to just take it one step at a time and right now I have to finish editing the thesis so it can officially be turned in and I can get my diploma. Then prepare work for the summer and then deal with the rest of life...alright...library time...

Recent Presentation on my thesis...

Last week I was encouraged to present my thesis work at a conference at my University along with my classmates who are working on the same excavation as well as archaeologists who work in the region.
http://arch-lab.ku.edu.tr/Amuq_Valley_Workshop

So,(in the absence of any interesting life news since I have been cooped up in a library, school office or a coffee shop for the past month and a half) I am posting my talk and presentation with all the lovely pictures.
enjoy:)

Tell Atchana, Tell Tayinat and the Archaeological Park Project:

A Cultural Heritage Perspective on Presenting Archaeology

Emily Arauz, Koç University

23 March, 2012

Slides from my Powerpoint presentation:

[TITLE SLIDE] First of all, I would like to thank Murat and Cigdem, not only for organizing this conference but also for their personal support in my research as well as for encouraging me to present today. Also, thank you to my advisor, Prof. Aslihan Yener, who welcomed my participation in the project and has very patiently supported my ideas and answered my many questions throughout the process.

So, we have heard a great deal about the archaeological and scientific research being conducted at the ongoing excavations at Tell Atchana, yesterday, and Tell Tayinat, this morning. In my presentation I would like to provide another perspective from the field of cultural heritage management, which places these sites within the context of the modern day landscape, so not just understanding how they were in antiquity but especially focusing on how they exist today.

Firstly, a project has been initiated by Prof. Yener and Prof. Harrison to develop an Amuq Settlements Archaeological Park in order to conceptually, visually and legally connect the two sites of Tell Tayinat and Tell Atchana as well as to officially open the sites to the public. [SLIDE]

These sites and the history of the excavations have been discussed to great length, so I don’t want to go into detail, but just to recognize that these two sites have both an ancient and a modern history which strengthens their value in the field of archaeology and in the development of the cultural identity of the Hatay province. There are layers of history which need to be considered in the planning process, what was there in antiquity, what was found and was still remaining to be viewed in the early 20^th century and what we can see and what is being excavated today [SLIDE - ATCHANA] [SLIDE-TAYINAT].

The architect for the project, Selin Maner, [SLIDE] has designed and proposed plans which have been approved by the local Kurul Board and the Ministry in Ankara, including a protective structure at each site [SLIDE] and visitor paths through the remains [SLIDE].

            Another aspect of the project is the restoration of Sir Leonard Woolley’s Expedition House at Tell Atchana [SLIDE], located within the legally protected, 1^st and 3^rd degree boundaries on the mound, the conservation of this building is an immediate concern. The existence of this building and its location means that an additional proposal or approval for the construction of an off-site building is not necessary.  And the origin and history of the building and its original user lends itself well towards the development of an onsite learning center, especially focusing on presenting information about the historic excavations conducted at Atchana by one of the most famous British archaeologists in the early 20^th century.

            Comprehensive and professional conservation plans for both sites will be the next step for extending the usage of these two sites beyond historic and scientific objectives so that the sustained existence of the remains from the prior excavations is ensured, otherwise there will be nothing to present to the visitors which would make planning for any additional amenities and facilities obsolete. The recent funding from Kaplan, mentioned by Prof. Yener yesterday, will hopefully help in achieving these immediate goals and needs.

* * *

My part in the project has focused on the cultural heritage aspect of managing such a project. By researching theories, practices and methods utilized at other sites in Turkey and abroad, as well as understanding international standards set by organizations such as UNESCO and the World Heritage Centre, my work has taken on the structure of a preliminary study for a Management Plan for Alalakh and the Archaeological Park Project. A Management Plan is a document that facilitates the integration of all development projects, methods, definitions, interpretations and values of the site as well as a comprehensive review of all previous, present and future objectives for a site.      

This research has mainly focused on the management and development planning at Tell Atchana, however, because the final objective of the project is one Archaeological Park, many of the objectives, needs and planning must be considered for both Tell Tayinat and Tell Atchana in conjunction as well as a view towards including any other sites in the valley deemed appropriate in the future planning process.

            So today, since this is an archaeology conference and not a cultural heritage conference, I want to present why this particular perspective is important and what exactly the field of cultural heritage management contributes to the management of an archaeological site. And within that context I will address how I have been attempting to incorporate these ideas into the planning process for Tell Atchana, and, when possible, to also extend the planning to include Tell Tayinat and the Amuq Settlements Archaeological Park Project.

* * *

So, one of the first things to recognize about the management and development of an archaeological site is how its presentation is different from the presentation of a single object. The context [SLIDE], in this case the outdoor setting of an excavated site, automatically gives the visitor’s experience a value of authenticity [CLICK]. The people visiting a site have the added benefit of sound, smell and touch, in addition to sight [CLICK]. Especially at ongoing excavations such as Tell Tayinat and Tell Atchana, people have the opportunity to see the archaeological process in action [CLICK] [SLIDE] which then contributes to their understanding of how the objects in the museums, have been found and how the experts were able to interpret them.

[SLIDE] Through the addition of visitor paths with viewing platforms, visitors are given unequaled access to these ancient remains. And by remaining true to the original experience, meaning, by constructing the modern paths through the ancient hallways and up the stairs of the original structures, the ancient experience can then be reconstructed. So, just as you may reconstruct an ancient building, we can also attempt to reconstruct the spatial experience [CLICK] through the careful arrangement of visitor paths.

* * *

The narrative [CLICK] is then created through paying close attention to the placement of the panels along these designated paths and throughout the ancient remains. The visitor needs to be drawn in so the information must be built up gradually, like writing a story. The placement of the information panels throughout the site, along with the text and images, must be comprehensively planned in order to contribute to and to develop the overall narrative. Each panel should not be planned individually to only provide information about one space, but instead, the information needs to be integrated, so that each panel works together and supports the next panel along the path so in the end they create one narrative.

The text chosen for the panels must also allow for the reader to approach the information with their own notions, prior knowledge and understanding. And because the on-site experience is different, so too must the text be prepared and presented differently. In order to recognize the active relationship between the expert writer, the informational text, and the visitor who is reading the panel it is important to identify the targeted audience, and to allow for more open-ended interpretations. Especially in the case where the archaeological information and interpretations may be edited or adapted as new information comes to light, the text presented should reflect this ambiguity inherent in the archaeological process.  One method is to include questions that are left unanswered, which will create an active dialogue between the absent archaeologist and the present visitor. Also, the use of more informal, conversational language, imitating the tone of a tour-guide has been used by some site managers to reflect this desire to include the visitor in the process of discovery and interpretation.

* * *

Also, in line with conceptually developing the Archaeological Park Project, looking beyond the presentation of the remains on site and because these sites did not develop or exist in isolation, it is important for the visitors to also be made aware and for them to understand the surrounding landscape and setting of the site. And this can be achieved through the installation of vantage points [CLICK]. These areas allow for visitors to place the historic mound within a physical context. For example, at Tell Atchana and Tell Tayinat, it is important for visitors to understand the relationship of the settlements within the landscape of the Amuq Valley, with the Amanus Mountain range to the North and the course of the Orontes River connecting the valley to Mediterranean. Especially with the developing research on how these two sites interacted and how the settlements may have even migrated between the two mounds, it is essential that visitors on the mound visually and conceptually understand this relationship within the environmental setting. This level of comprehension would not be as available or clear if simply presented on a panel inside a gallery. But by standing on one mound and viewing the other mound [SLIDE – view of mounds from each site], across the modern highway where the course of the Orontes River once flowed, the viewer is then able to geographically contextualize the development and interaction of these ancient settlements.

* * *

The next issue then is the idea of Value-led planning [SLIDE], which is a theme that is often discussed by experts in the field and used as a declared methodology and an objective in planning projects.

            So, what Value-led planning means is, in order to expand the practical approach of conservation planning, where the objective is to preserve the physical remains, that a site manager should also focus on and conceptualize the process as preserving the values embedded in those architectural remains and within the whole site. This then encourages a more bottom-up approach to the planning process by recognizing and accentuating the significance and values of the site which may be lost in the planning process had a more top-down approach been taken.

* * *

This value-led planning approach is greatly affected by the development of a multi-vocal method [SLIDE]. In line with the recent trends in archaeological research and interpretation (as we have seen in this conference), so too does the field of heritage and site management greatly benefit through the inclusion of interdisciplinary and multi-originated planning constituents. Different stakeholders identify different values in the site. And in order to ensure a comprehensive, value-led approach all stakeholders and their values must be recognized and given a voice in the planning process. The site manager cannot be expected to foresee or recognize all the necessary values of their site.

* * *

Stemming from the method of value-led planning and the need for multi-vocality in the planning process, one of the values of the site that must be recognized and preserved is the value which the local community can contribute [SLIDE]. And, to this end, one of the most important issues in heritage and site management today is the development of Community Outreach programs [CLICK].

At Atchana [CLICK] there are two main villages that have an invested interest in the excavations at Alalakh and the development of the site [SLIDE]: Tayfursökmen, the village in which the excavation compound is located, and Varışlı, which is located on the mound of Tell Atchana and within the legally protected boundaries.

            One of the unique aspects about the current excavations at Atchana, which Murat mentioned yesterday, and which have utilized local community members’ expertise, and thus facilitated a more dynamic interaction between community members and the research team, have been the numerous experimental archaeology projects [SLIDE] including a wattle and daub structure, a roofed tandır (tandoor), a domed pottery kiln and a mud brick building built to test the effects of fire [SLIDE]. Future projects on-site are being considered and include a possible reconstruction project of a Bronze Age structure. These projects and the involvement of the local residents should be done not only to use their local knowledge of mud brick building but also to share with them and fuel their interest in the history of their ancient neighbors and to allow them to contribute to an active dialogue.

[SLIDE] During the 2011 Excavation Season a further step towards community outreach was taken when it became apparent that more active planning was needed in order to integrate the local communities into the planning process. I organized two voluntary, mound tours [CLICK]as a preliminary and immediately available choice, one for the women from Tayfursökmen and one for the excavation workmen from both Tayfursökmen and Varışlı.

            Before the tours were conducted brief questionnaires were written in order to gather basic information about the background of the families living in the villages, the relationship of the individuals with the excavation project and their understanding and perspective on the history of the site and the archaeological process.

The invitation for the women’s tour was first extended to the women who worked at the excavation compound as pottery and bone washers, cooks and the zooarchaeology assistant. They were then invited to extend the invite to other women from Tayfursokmen as well as any daughters who were interested in attending the mound tour; about fifteen women and children attended [SLIDE].  After two of my Turkish classmates, Müge Bulu and Gonca Dardeniz, facilitated the pre-tour questionnaire process the tour members were driven to the site, down the road. Prof. Aslihan Yener introduced the history of Alalakh and the excavations and then led the tour through Area 1 and 4. Then one of the student archaeologists, Lily Caldwell, and Muge, continued the tour in Area 3 [SLIDE]. After the tour, an informal feedback session was held to gather any suggestions or comments on the tour and the future development project.

            The second tour was organized specifically for the workmen from the excavations at Alalakh and was scheduled outside of the working hours [SLIDE]. Though many of the workmen had been excavating at Alalakh since the beginning of the current excavations, this was the first official tour organized and led by the archaeologists in order to give them a comprehensive overview of the history of Alalakh and the ongoing excavations. Nurettin Bataray, led the tour through Area 1. Lily Caldwell again gave explanations for certain trenches in Area 2. However in a few of the trenches in Area 2, some of the workmen who were currently working in those trenches gave the explanation for their specific trench [SLIDE]. This was a welcomed modification of the tour since it was evident that the workmen were ready and excited to share the information they had helped excavate that season.

            As I mentioned, some of the workmen have been working at the site since the beginning of the excavations and the amount of knowledge they have gained is in some cases more than that of the student archaeologists in training. In the course of future planning, especially with a view towards sustainable planning for the park and thereby sustainable programming for the local communities, it is recommended then to recognize this interest and level of knowledge within the planning process. Interested workmen should be given the opportunity not only for consultation on the process as a stakeholder but also should be asked to contribute ideas for the integration and presentation of the historical information and the archaeological process. These men are also important individuals in terms of bridging the gap between the archaeologists and the local community members. In addition to the perspective that the archaeologists may be able to present to the local community, it would also be an interesting dynamic to have the senior workmen also present their perspective on the project to their fellow communities.  

[SLIDE] So, in addition to continuing this new tradition of mound tours as well as community talks by Prof. Yener presented in Antakya in previous years, further ideas for the integration of the local community and ideas for creating a sustainable relationship and impact on the communities, include some of the following, forms of which can be found executed at various sites in Istanbul, Turkey and abroad and can be used as examples for the future programming at Tell Atchana and Tell Tayinat:

            - Educational programs for students

            - Adult Education programs

            - Community tours and on-site events

            - We can also start working more actively with the local community by encouraging students to work on oral history projects and by using the college students from Mustafa Kemal University to develop programs to be executed in the off-season (some of whom actually live in the village on the mound).

* * *

Also, this coming season, one of the next steps we will be taking, in addition to beginning the planning for conservation at both sites, is to begin creating mockups for some of the information panels at Tell Atchana. We can begin planning them and setting them up on site as well as getting feedback from various audiences in order to devise the best method for presenting the site. 

* * *

Finally, one of the main things to conclude from this discussion is that the planning process needs to be a continuous process of asking, answering and finding new questions. Some questions that we can begin with when starting the management process include [SLIDE]:

Questions for further Discussion

•      What are the values embedded in the site?

•      Who has a stake in preserving or creating those values?

•      How can those values be preserved or sustained?

•      How can those values and thus the site be presented?

* * *

[SLIDE]So, what I tried to show in my presentation today is that we cannot just present the site from the perspective of the archaeologists and the expert researchers or the governmental committees who give the approval but a multi-angled perspective needs to be recognized and included throughout the process, especially that of the visitors and the local communities. And, as I said in the beginning, we need to recognize and present the values of the site as it exists today in addition to the interpretation of the past. By incorporating these modern values, the development of these sites and the Archaeological Park can contribute to the modern communities which make up the current cultural landscape of the Amuq Valley.

[CLICK] Thank you. 

must do real work...

anyone have good suggestions for focusing???

productive procrastination...

well I am too cheap and too lazy to make a real website, but this is a start...

theothergreysquare.blogspot.com


after seeing other artists' websites I thought: I could do that! I have interesting projects that I would like to share in one space and have the chance to explain them. Also, since I have other ideas that maybe should be kept in a sketchbook but I am interested in sharing them and seeing their visual development.

new, recent music obsession!

the original by Robyn is really good too and will get stuck in your head for days...
enjoy!

Summer in Hatay - 2011

some of my personal advice for visitors...

a few times now I have been asked by people who are coming to visit for some good advice and recommendations. It has been two years now so I have plenty of places and food to suggest and I fear I tend to overwhelm people with my suggestions. But I have decided to post a couple of my various emails that I have sent, in which many of the things overlap but there are some personalized suggestions I tried to make depending on the people, their interests and the time they have to spend here. It also seems like a good place to store and archive my suggestions. so if you need to be tempted to come visit or are planning a trip here some things to start with:


for a young 20-something friend from Wellesley, visiting for a long weekend: 
so i've tried to think of a few basic recommendations off the beaten path for you or even the small touristy places you might skip over. First of all you will definitely spend at least a day in the touristy district where you will be staying. Topkapı palace and the Hagia Sophia church (/museum) are worth the large ticket prices. Luckily all the mosques, like the Blue Mosque, are free to visit because they are still in use. Just remember that you will have to visit them during non-prayer times. Also the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are always a good time to wander through and get lost and get yelled at by many many Turkish men trying to sell you things. Two smaller recommendations, which are probably in guide books, are the Basilica Cisterns and the Rüstem Pasha Mosque. The Cisterns are a super cool, underground space where water was stored. It's right across the street from the Hagia Sophia, ticket price is less than 10lira, I think, and its a fairly quick visit so its easy to fit in if you are waiting for prayer time to be over or to escape from the afternoon heat. The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is down by the Spice Bazaar, it can be a little tricky to find since there is just a small doorway to stairs that lead up to the mosque. (I will also send you a Google map where i placed all the spots I am recommending since Istanbul can be a bit overwhelming and confusing at times). But the mosque is really beautiful and full of the famous blue Iznik tiles. As for food in that area, the fish sandwiches that you can buy down by the water are quite delicious and fun since they are made on brightly lit-up boats and cheap! But you will smell like fish and onions all day so you may want to wait until you are on your way to the hotel to change. (I don't remember if you are a vegetarian or not...there are some other decent, old, classic restaurants in that area and if you check any guidebook you should be able to find a good one.)

My recommendations for places outside of the historic peninsula are first of all to take a boat ride up the Bosporus. There should be plenty of cheap ones, even commuter ones. But as long as the weather is good, a ferry ride is one of the best ways to experience Istanbul and you will understand how huge Istanbul is. And if you do take one that will let you off at Sarıyer, that where I have been living and where my school is. Its a cute little neighborhood and a decent place to stop and get lunch (Sarıyer is known for börek a type of flaky pastry filled with all sorts of tasty fillings or Çiğ Köfte is my favorite - its a spicy concoction of bulgur, potatoes and spices wrapped up in a durum with lettuce and lemon). Then you can take a bus back down the coast (the 25e leaves from the bus stop near the coast and will take a while or the 25t goes back to Taksim through more financial districts) or another ferry. 

The other thing you will want to do is to hang out in Taksim. Its the hipper, more European area where the bars, clubs, shopping and restaurants are. You can get to it by crossing the bridge from the Spice Bazaar and after you cross there is a Funicular tram that will take you up the hill (Its a very very steep hill and I don't recommend walking) to the end of the main street in Taksim, called Istiklal Street. The tram is called Tünel (like tunnel) and you should see signs for the entrance after you cross the bridge, you may have to follow underground pathways to cross the street. If you ask someone they should be able to tell you too. Its only one stop up the hill, and when you get out, if you go to the right there are a bunch of music stores if you are interested in buying some traditional Turkish instruments. There are also lots of fun backstreets near there which are full of people and bars and restaurants, especially at night. Then you can follow Istıklal Street all the way up to Taksim Square. Istiklal is a pedestrian avenue that can get very crowded but there is lots of good shopping and people watching. My other recommendation is a bar called Kooperatif (like Cooperative). They usually have some interesting music concerts going on and cheapish alcohol. It also reminds me of the Hoop because its below ground and all painted white with art everywhere. I think you would definitely appreciate it. The guys who run it are very cool and usually speak English. They may have a facebook page if you want to see if they are having any events when you are here. The first time I ever went was for an improv Theramin concert so they definitely host some weird and interesting things and sometimes its traditional Turkish music, you never know, but it is a great place to hang out and possibly meet some other interesting people passing through. 

I know this message is going to super long but forgive me, there's a lot to recommend in Istanbul  A few other places to check out that are more off the beaten path...first of all there is a neighborhood called Ortakoy, just underneath the first bridge, on the European side. Its a nice, smaller place to wander, buy souvenirs and drink tea with a view of the Bosporus. It is also the best place to get street food. There is a square next to the main road full of food vendors selling three main things: Kumpir, Gozleme and Waffles. Waffles are basic waffles filled with whatever sweet and fruity thing you want. Kumpir are baked potatoes filled with whatever salty thing you want, highly recommended!! and Gozleme are almost like Crepes, a thin dough filled with cheese or potatoes or spinach, etc. and then cooked on a domed grill. Also very very delicious! 

If you are going up or down the Bosporus along the coast, another good place to stop is Arnavutkoy. This is where Jitters is working for the next month so you should email her to see if she's available that weekend so she can take you to our favorite restaurant. There is a place there called Bodrum Mantısı Restaurant. Mantı is usually translated as Turkish Ravioli and is best when lightly fried. Then they cover it in yogurt, butter sauce and garlic. It is the absolute best. Then next door is great ice cream place called Girandola. Eating at these places are fabulous because the food is delicious, service is great and you can wander along the shore when you are finished. Def. email jitters so she can make sure you get the full experience. Its also good to have an excuse to hang out in places beyond the average tourist area. 

The final recommendation again is all about ferries and food! You can take a ferry from the historic peninsula across to Asia to a neighborhood called Kadıkoy. If you have time and want to explore more, its a nice little trip to cross over, the ferry takes only 20 min or something and is a commuter ferry so should only cost about 2lira. Its a funky neighborhood and there is a famous restaurant there called C(h)iya. There is a kebab restaurant and a 'sofrası' restaurant, they are right across the street from each other. At the sofrası you can pick out a plate of tasty small foods like hummus, filled squash, etc. Then they also have a menu of specialty food from across Turkey. If you really want a taste of Turkish food that is a good place to go.

So, I think that is enough for now. If you need or want any more specific details of how to get around just let me know. It is pretty easy, there is lots of good public transportation and people can usually point to the right direction if you get lost. I will send you my map with a few other places if you are interested. Also, some good websites are:http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/index.html which is a very comprehensive website for tourists. and http://istanbuleats.com/ which is a great, English website for food to eat and where to eat it in Istanbul. Also, Anthony Bourdain did an episode of No Reservations in Istanbul last year which is very fun and a good introduction to Istanbul and its food: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pz223HRovno 

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=203785227080739741927.0004a6350e44638135eb3&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=41.078506%2C28.998434&spn=0.178135%2C0.118575&output=embed

market day...

so, now that my computer has returned to me with all the lovely pictures I put on it before it died a couple weeks ago, I can finally post pictures from the weekly market (the bazaar or in turkish - pazar). It may not seem the most exotic of markets or food but hopefully it will add some color to the blog after the long post about my thesis research.

view of the market street on wednesday morning

just the beginning...

shoes!

cheese

olives

sour, green plums...turks have a strange affinity for sour, unripe fruit which is actually quite tasty once you get used to them.

yay for seasonal fruits

an artsy photograph per Ashley's request

grape leaves for dolma (the stuffed grape leaves with rice, etc.)

dried fruits and nuts vendor

Ashley at the market

more olives, yum!

a especially nicely decorated veggie stand

artichoke vendor...i've never bought any but have always been intrigued by the floating artichokes in large blue buckets...

more lovely cheap bazaar shoes which are actually quite comfortable

more cheese

you can even use your credit card to buy sheets at the bazaar 

afiyet olsun!

thoughts...

So, I am in the process of writing (hopefully finishing) my thesis. To give those of you who don't know and care some background, I am writing about archaeological site management in Turkey. The main chapter is a Site Management Plan for the Bronze-Age (c.2000 B.C.) excavation at Alalakh, which I worked at last summer and will return to work at again this summer, in a month. The site was excavated back in the 1930s and 40s by Sir Leonard Woolley, a famous British Archaeologist who was buddies with Agatha Christie. Currently the site is being excavated by one of my Professors, Aslıhan Yener. They have been excavating and studying the site for about the last 10 years. In the past couple of years they have decided to present the site more efficiently and officially to visitors as well as taking greater length to preserve Woolley's excavated remains as well as the recently excavated spaces. All this while continuing the scientific excavation seasons every summer.

All over the world and especially in Turkey, during the past decade, there has been a concerted effort to increase preservation and presentation efforts at Heritage Sites. This is often due to increase tourism but in a way helps (depending who or how you look at it) the preservation of culture and heritage. Turkey is also increasing their nominations to the World Heritage committee of UNESCO which then requires more standards and management efforts. Site Management Plans are one of these requirements which are beginning to be required for every site in Turkey, not just the ones applying for World Heritage status. Of course, it is another discussion as to who is really enforcing this requirement or funding it for that matter. Nevertheless, site managements plans can be useful in some situations, though more often than not they are shelved and never used because everyone involved are unable to agree on all decisions stated. The Management Plan which I am writing is only a preliminary plan, firstly because it is just me writing it, for a plan to be fully operational all persons involved and experts should be able to write or be heavily consulted about the relevant section, and secondly because I am only writing it in one year (Inşallah = god willing). A plan should be a long, drawn out process of constant consultation and discussion and editing as excavations progress and as different experts are brought in. So hopefully what I write can at least be used as a starting point and usable document for further development of the site. Besides the basics of the plans, such as stating the significance, values, historical background, funding options and stakeholders (people with some degree of interest in the site) I have also been given the task of discussing, and in some cases designing, the practical aspects which will also be implemented such as the visitors path, information panels and revamping Woolley's original excavation house as a information (or visitors) center. Some of these elements have already been designed and planned by the architect they have hired, such as the path and structure which will be built to cover and conserve the remains. The other elements such as panels and exhibits have been left to me, as the "heritage expert" to design. However, before I can get to any practical design stages, I have been caught up in the theoretical background as to how people really experience a heritage site, what information they are interested in and how much they can understand and how to connect the information to the process of excavation, to the surrounding landscape which houses many other ancient communities, and to the artifacts themselves which are housed in museums in the nearby city of Antakya as well as in the British Museum all the way in London. This brings in all sorts of theories and ideas, from Public Archaeology to Reception Theory (a personal fave from art classes at Wellesley) to New Museology methods. I have always had a tendency to get caught up in the preliminary, conceptual conversation before getting to the practical aspects, but really, how can you decide how to design and layout and strategically place an information panel, assuming you really want visitors to read it and understand and appreciate it, without taking into account all these theoretical concepts? Yes, you could stick the boring history  on it and some pictures...but I barely ever read that stuff and who does? Though, it is interesting the practical aspects that do come up which can easily be overlooked if you are not looking at the greater picture. For example, when I walk around a site or museum I get tired, I want to sit down...therefore you need to add benches to the site and you need to add them in shady spots because who wants to sit and relax in the hot summer sun of south Turkey? This being said, I have been going through a great deal of practical as well as theoretical concepts in relation to my thesis. It has certainly been an interesting process and I have learned a lot, and am still learning a lot. I have been fortunate lately to network and meet with more 'heritage experts' who have more experience in the field though, really for every situation different approaches and methods have to be applied because every site is different and has different strengths and threats.

It was interesting last week, I attended a conference in Istanbul entitled 'Memory, Materiality and Cultural Heritage.' The conference was mainly dominated by anthropologists, who have a vastly different approach to heritage than archaeologists, a much more human-centered sensitivity rather than a focus on the ancient, material remains. I, personally, do not have an anthropologists viewpoint but I understand the need to incorporate the recognition of the local communities in the development of heritage sites. When you are only there for the summer, they are there year-round and have to deal and interact with any tourists who visit and they are the ones given responsibility to protect the site. And the more they can identify and respect the remains the more they will consider it their duty to protect it. Especially in my situation, we can't expect a spiritual connection by them to the ancient community, seeing them as their ancestors whose remains they must protect as is found in some parts of the world. Instead this is a 4,000 year old site and a recently settled, small, poor village whose even existence is threatened by the government because they dwell on the mound itself. They aren't allowed to expand and renovate their homes because they are in a legally protected heritage zone. And of course they have no where to more to, let alone the money which would be required for resettlement elsewhere. Yet, we have to expect or convince them that they have important ties to this ancient community in the hopes that they will respect it, protect the site and be proud of it, wanting to share it with their children, neighbors and visitors.

So, the question remains, how do you answer all these questions? efficiently, affectively and sensitively? All I have got so far is that it is a process, a very long one and I am not sure that it has an end. Now, I should go and actually write my thesis, now that I have vented some of my ideas, frustrations and concerns. Hope it hasn't bored you too much but since I know I don't post very often about what I am doing, I wanted to show that I have been thinking, if not doing.  I'll leave it at that for now, maybe add some more later...

food

So, as I have been travelling and attempting to be more aware of the culture I have been immersed in the past two years, I have come to be even more aware of my love for food. And as you may have noticed I have been taking many pictures of food when I travel and I think, have gotten fairly good at taking aesthetically pleasing close-up pictures of delicious, exotic food. This being said I have decided to take more pictures of the food I eat on a daily basis not just the food I eat while travelling. I am posting an album here of some pictures I have taken so far, at home and around Istanbul. I hope to add more pictures to this album as I continue to eat more deliciousness in the coming months. The pictures that are in the album currently show making Sigara Börek (Sigara because this particular version looks like cigarettes) at home with friends. This version of Börek is just a rolled bit of thin dough (like the dough used for baklava) with a cheese and parsley filling and then fried, they can also be baked for a bit healthier option. The other food in the album is a basic Adana Durum, which is the spicy version of a meat filled wrap, like kebab but with ground meat mixed with spices. And with it a delicious Ayran, the salty, watery yogurt drink that goes well with spicy food. And finally is the Çiğ (Chee) Köfte spread. Çiğ Köfte originally is a spicy mix of raw meat, but in this case the fake version has become a very popular fast food version. Instead of raw meat, it is rather a spicy mix of mashed potatoes and bulgur (at least as far as I can figure out from the recipes I have yet to try). But this particular restaurant chain is delicious and by far the best I have tried so far. The traditional way of eating it, when not in a wrap, is to wrap it in lettuce and lavaş (like a tortilla) with lemon, spicy sauce, and parsley. I have become addicted to it and luckily they do not deliver otherwise my addiction would be even worse. However it is on my list to learn how to make this as well so if/when I leave Turkey I can continue eating it. 

Food in Istanbul - At Home or Outside

and until I take more pictures of more food...enjoy and afiyet olsun! (Turkish for bon appetit!)

the little bit of spring that we've had so far in İstanbul...

Tulip Time in Istanbul

Every year in Istanbul there is a Tulip Festival celebrating the national flower of Turkey. Its historical importance goes back to the Ottoman Empire, there is actually a period call the Tulip Period. [The Turkish for tulip is Lale.] The festival usually happens around March or April, luckily also around Spring Break. In addition to the amazing flower arrangements they build along the highways (check out the clock made of tulips) and neighborhood roundabouts, a few major parks around the city are designated as specific festival destinations. Last year, for various reasons I did not attend any of these parks so this year I made a point not to miss it again. So, one very nice friday (it gets ridiculous on the weekends so I was very lucky I could go on a weekday) I stopped over in Emirgan Park, located in one of the very nice, fancy neighborhoods up along the Bosporus. The weather pretended it was spring for the day so I could fully enjoy the blue skies and live outdoor music. The park was huge and very hilly so if you missed a bit chances are you had to climb all the way back up again to see the map of Turkey made with red tulips or the river of tulips. Also to get back to the stand selling flowers involved yet another hill but to remember the day I had to buy my own tulip for 1lira, (about 70cents) and I was then able to enjoy Spring in my own room for another week. 

visual evidence of my spring break...

Spring Break Part I: Hatay

lots of boring overgrown rocks, enjoy!!

Spring Break Part II: Selçuk and Ephesus

much more interesting old rocks :)

upcoming spring break adventures...

so next week is finally spring break so I have actually made plans to leave Istanbul and see some more of this country I've been calling home. This weekend I will go back down to Hatay, technically for a thesis research trip. I will revisit the mound and the site of the excavation. Also I will hopefully have some time to see the town of Antakya as well and some local sites. Then after I return next monday, on tuesday morning I will go with my friend Deniz to Ephesus. Our greek professor lives nearby so he will take us on a tour of the Roman site and other places depending on how far away they are and how much time we have.

I am super excited, to see new places, old places and to eat some delicious künefe with ice cream in Antakya!
There will definitely be some pictures coming in the next couple weeks.

happy spring :)

greek...

so, we are just about to start reading a section of Odysseus in our greek class and it has reminded me of my favorite poem so I am posting it here, along with a cheesy video interpretation complete with pretty pictures.

As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.
 
Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.
 
Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.
 
Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
 
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean. 



http://www.cavafy.com/poems/content.asp?id=74&cat=1

enjoy!