Thursday, June 16, 2011

market day...

so, now that my computer has returned to me with all the lovely pictures I put on it before it died a couple weeks ago, I can finally post pictures from the weekly market (the bazaar or in turkish - pazar). It may not seem the most exotic of markets or food but hopefully it will add some color to the blog after the long post about my thesis research.
view of the market street on wednesday morning

just the beginning...

shoes!


cheese

olives

sour, green plums...turks have a strange affinity for sour, unripe fruit which is actually quite tasty once you get used to them.

yay for seasonal fruits

an artsy photograph per Ashley's request


grape leaves for dolma (the stuffed grape leaves with rice, etc.)

dried fruits and nuts vendor

Ashley at the market


more olives, yum!

a especially nicely decorated veggie stand

artichoke vendor...i've never bought any but have always been intrigued by the floating artichokes in large blue buckets...

more lovely cheap bazaar shoes which are actually quite comfortable

more cheese

you can even use your credit card to buy sheets at the bazaar 
afiyet olsun!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

thoughts...

So, I am in the process of writing (hopefully finishing) my thesis. To give those of you who don't know and care some background, I am writing about archaeological site management in Turkey. The main chapter is a Site Management Plan for the Bronze-Age (c.2000 B.C.) excavation at Alalakh, which I worked at last summer and will return to work at again this summer, in a month. The site was excavated back in the 1930s and 40s by Sir Leonard Woolley, a famous British Archaeologist who was buddies with Agatha Christie. Currently the site is being excavated by one of my Professors, Aslıhan Yener. They have been excavating and studying the site for about the last 10 years. In the past couple of years they have decided to present the site more efficiently and officially to visitors as well as taking greater length to preserve Woolley's excavated remains as well as the recently excavated spaces. All this while continuing the scientific excavation seasons every summer.

All over the world and especially in Turkey, during the past decade, there has been a concerted effort to increase preservation and presentation efforts at Heritage Sites. This is often due to increase tourism but in a way helps (depending who or how you look at it) the preservation of culture and heritage. Turkey is also increasing their nominations to the World Heritage committee of UNESCO which then requires more standards and management efforts. Site Management Plans are one of these requirements which are beginning to be required for every site in Turkey, not just the ones applying for World Heritage status. Of course, it is another discussion as to who is really enforcing this requirement or funding it for that matter. Nevertheless, site managements plans can be useful in some situations, though more often than not they are shelved and never used because everyone involved are unable to agree on all decisions stated. The Management Plan which I am writing is only a preliminary plan, firstly because it is just me writing it, for a plan to be fully operational all persons involved and experts should be able to write or be heavily consulted about the relevant section, and secondly because I am only writing it in one year (Inşallah = god willing). A plan should be a long, drawn out process of constant consultation and discussion and editing as excavations progress and as different experts are brought in. So hopefully what I write can at least be used as a starting point and usable document for further development of the site. Besides the basics of the plans, such as stating the significance, values, historical background, funding options and stakeholders (people with some degree of interest in the site) I have also been given the task of discussing, and in some cases designing, the practical aspects which will also be implemented such as the visitors path, information panels and revamping Woolley's original excavation house as a information (or visitors) center. Some of these elements have already been designed and planned by the architect they have hired, such as the path and structure which will be built to cover and conserve the remains. The other elements such as panels and exhibits have been left to me, as the "heritage expert" to design. However, before I can get to any practical design stages, I have been caught up in the theoretical background as to how people really experience a heritage site, what information they are interested in and how much they can understand and how to connect the information to the process of excavation, to the surrounding landscape which houses many other ancient communities, and to the artifacts themselves which are housed in museums in the nearby city of Antakya as well as in the British Museum all the way in London. This brings in all sorts of theories and ideas, from Public Archaeology to Reception Theory (a personal fave from art classes at Wellesley) to New Museology methods. I have always had a tendency to get caught up in the preliminary, conceptual conversation before getting to the practical aspects, but really, how can you decide how to design and layout and strategically place an information panel, assuming you really want visitors to read it and understand and appreciate it, without taking into account all these theoretical concepts? Yes, you could stick the boring history  on it and some pictures...but I barely ever read that stuff and who does? Though, it is interesting the practical aspects that do come up which can easily be overlooked if you are not looking at the greater picture. For example, when I walk around a site or museum I get tired, I want to sit down...therefore you need to add benches to the site and you need to add them in shady spots because who wants to sit and relax in the hot summer sun of south Turkey? This being said, I have been going through a great deal of practical as well as theoretical concepts in relation to my thesis. It has certainly been an interesting process and I have learned a lot, and am still learning a lot. I have been fortunate lately to network and meet with more 'heritage experts' who have more experience in the field though, really for every situation different approaches and methods have to be applied because every site is different and has different strengths and threats.

It was interesting last week, I attended a conference in Istanbul entitled 'Memory, Materiality and Cultural Heritage.' The conference was mainly dominated by anthropologists, who have a vastly different approach to heritage than archaeologists, a much more human-centered sensitivity rather than a focus on the ancient, material remains. I, personally, do not have an anthropologists viewpoint but I understand the need to incorporate the recognition of the local communities in the development of heritage sites. When you are only there for the summer, they are there year-round and have to deal and interact with any tourists who visit and they are the ones given responsibility to protect the site. And the more they can identify and respect the remains the more they will consider it their duty to protect it. Especially in my situation, we can't expect a spiritual connection by them to the ancient community, seeing them as their ancestors whose remains they must protect as is found in some parts of the world. Instead this is a 4,000 year old site and a recently settled, small, poor village whose even existence is threatened by the government because they dwell on the mound itself. They aren't allowed to expand and renovate their homes because they are in a legally protected heritage zone. And of course they have no where to more to, let alone the money which would be required for resettlement elsewhere. Yet, we have to expect or convince them that they have important ties to this ancient community in the hopes that they will respect it, protect the site and be proud of it, wanting to share it with their children, neighbors and visitors.

So, the question remains, how do you answer all these questions? efficiently, affectively and sensitively? All I have got so far is that it is a process, a very long one and I am not sure that it has an end. Now, I should go and actually write my thesis, now that I have vented some of my ideas, frustrations and concerns. Hope it hasn't bored you too much but since I know I don't post very often about what I am doing, I wanted to show that I have been thinking, if not doing.  I'll leave it at that for now, maybe add some more later...

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

food

So, as I have been travelling and attempting to be more aware of the culture I have been immersed in the past two years, I have come to be even more aware of my love for food. And as you may have noticed I have been taking many pictures of food when I travel and I think, have gotten fairly good at taking aesthetically pleasing close-up pictures of delicious, exotic food. This being said I have decided to take more pictures of the food I eat on a daily basis not just the food I eat while travelling. I am posting an album here of some pictures I have taken so far, at home and around Istanbul. I hope to add more pictures to this album as I continue to eat more deliciousness in the coming months. The pictures that are in the album currently show making Sigara Börek (Sigara because this particular version looks like cigarettes) at home with friends. This version of Börek is just a rolled bit of thin dough (like the dough used for baklava) with a cheese and parsley filling and then fried, they can also be baked for a bit healthier option. The other food in the album is a basic Adana Durum, which is the spicy version of a meat filled wrap, like kebab but with ground meat mixed with spices. And with it a delicious Ayran, the salty, watery yogurt drink that goes well with spicy food. And finally is the Çiğ (Chee) Köfte spread. Çiğ Köfte originally is a spicy mix of raw meat, but in this case the fake version has become a very popular fast food version. Instead of raw meat, it is rather a spicy mix of mashed potatoes and bulgur (at least as far as I can figure out from the recipes I have yet to try). But this particular restaurant chain is delicious and by far the best I have tried so far. The traditional way of eating it, when not in a wrap, is to wrap it in lettuce and lavaş (like a tortilla) with lemon, spicy sauce, and parsley. I have become addicted to it and luckily they do not deliver otherwise my addiction would be even worse. However it is on my list to learn how to make this as well so if/when I leave Turkey I can continue eating it. 



Food in Istanbul - At Home or Outside



and until I take more pictures of more food...enjoy and afiyet olsun! (Turkish for bon appetit!)

Thursday, May 5, 2011

the little bit of spring that we've had so far in İstanbul...

Tulip Time in Istanbul


Every year in Istanbul there is a Tulip Festival celebrating the national flower of Turkey. Its historical importance goes back to the Ottoman Empire, there is actually a period call the Tulip Period. [The Turkish for tulip is Lale.] The festival usually happens around March or April, luckily also around Spring Break. In addition to the amazing flower arrangements they build along the highways (check out the clock made of tulips) and neighborhood roundabouts, a few major parks around the city are designated as specific festival destinations. Last year, for various reasons I did not attend any of these parks so this year I made a point not to miss it again. So, one very nice friday (it gets ridiculous on the weekends so I was very lucky I could go on a weekday) I stopped over in Emirgan Park, located in one of the very nice, fancy neighborhoods up along the Bosporus. The weather pretended it was spring for the day so I could fully enjoy the blue skies and live outdoor music. The park was huge and very hilly so if you missed a bit chances are you had to climb all the way back up again to see the map of Turkey made with red tulips or the river of tulips. Also to get back to the stand selling flowers involved yet another hill but to remember the day I had to buy my own tulip for 1lira, (about 70cents) and I was then able to enjoy Spring in my own room for another week. 

Monday, April 11, 2011

visual evidence of my spring break...

Spring Break Part I: Hatay

lots of boring overgrown rocks, enjoy!!


Spring Break Part II: Selçuk and Ephesus

much more interesting old rocks :)

Thursday, March 31, 2011

upcoming spring break adventures...

so next week is finally spring break so I have actually made plans to leave Istanbul and see some more of this country I've been calling home. This weekend I will go back down to Hatay, technically for a thesis research trip. I will revisit the mound and the site of the excavation. Also I will hopefully have some time to see the town of Antakya as well and some local sites. Then after I return next monday, on tuesday morning I will go with my friend Deniz to Ephesus. Our greek professor lives nearby so he will take us on a tour of the Roman site and other places depending on how far away they are and how much time we have.

I am super excited, to see new places, old places and to eat some delicious künefe with ice cream in Antakya!
There will definitely be some pictures coming in the next couple weeks.

happy spring :)

Monday, March 21, 2011

greek...

so, we are just about to start reading a section of Odysseus in our greek class and it has reminded me of my favorite poem so I am posting it here, along with a cheesy video interpretation complete with pretty pictures.

As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.
 
Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.
 
Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.
 
Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
 
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean. 



http://www.cavafy.com/poems/content.asp?id=74&cat=1

enjoy!

Monday, March 14, 2011

blog design

sorry for the constant changing of the blog design but I have yet to be really happy with the aesthetics that it presents. It also happens to be a great procrastination tool :) if anyone happens to have good design ideas or color themes that work best I would be more than happy to listen. Also, I have yet to figure out or take the time to make a personalized header with a picture from my own archives, which I think would be most effective in representing my collection of thoughts. Today, I also happened to figure out the reason blogspot has not been working on my computer at home in the apartment, because Turkey has banned blogger.com! Good thing Koç Univ. allows access to all blocked websites so at least when I am at school I can access such exciting and scandalous sites.

till next time...enjoy the yellow:)